Nice drape? Test. Doesn’t wrinkle whenever you put on it, or stuff it right into a suitcase for trip. You betcha. Simple to dye and for factories to work with. Yup. And, wait, it is also breathable (learn, comfy), feels luxurious, and it’s sustainable. The fiber I’m speaking about is Lyocell. Or, in case your fancy, Tencel Lyocell cloth. So, what’s tencel cloth?
No marvel lyocell materials has turn into one of many vogue industries’ fibers of alternative for the previous few years. As a result of, these options make it a very widespread textile not only for clothes, but additionally dwelling items. However, if Lyocell is so good, why isn’t everybody utilizing it for every part? Don’t fear, I’ll get to that.
This text goes to show you all about what lyocell is, discover the fibers professionals and cons, enable you decide if it’s the best fiber on your clothes clothes, and educate you the place to supply it.
We’re going to cowl some high-level textile stuff (sciencey). However, it’s necessary, and I do know you may deal with it.
BUT BEFORE WE GET STARTED…
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They gained’t be free endlessly, so be certain to seize them whilst you can.
HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
- What is the difference between lyocell and Tencel?
- What is lyocell fiber?
- How is lyocell fabric made?
- Properties of lyocell fabrics
- Stretch
- Hand really feel
- Shrinkage
- Absorbency
- Does it wrinkle?
- Is lyocell higher for decent or chilly climate?
- Wash and care directions
- Should you use lyocell in your clothing line?
- Professionals
- Cons
- This or that?
- Tencel™ lyocelll vs lyocell
- Lyocell vs modal
- Lyocell vs viscose
- Sustainability – I saved this for the end for a reason
- Where to buy Lyocell fabric
- Additional sustainable fiber resources
NO TIME TO READ? CHECK OUT THIS 60 SECOND SLIDE SHOW!
LYOCELL VS TENCEL?
Is lyocell the identical as tencell lyocell? Sure, and no. Is a Xerox and photocopy the identical factor? How a couple of band-aid and bandage? Or, a Kleenex and tissue? The distinction between every instance in all of those pairs is that one is a reputation model, and the opposite is generic.
Tencel Lyocell cloth is a name-brand model of Lyocell that’s made and managed by the corporate Lenzing.
However, it will get a bit extra complicated. Whereas Lyocell is a fiber, and Tencel is the branded model of that fiber, lyocell can also be a producing course of (I am going to clarify extra in only a minute).
The professional to utilizing Lenzing’s branded Tencel and never the generic form of fiber is that with Lenzing, you get all their traceability, that means you already know precisely the place and the way the fibers had been made. However, the down aspect is that data comes at the next worth.
WHAT IS LYOCELL FIBER?
Lyocell is a 3rd era rayon. First got here viscose, then got here modal (which was an enchancment to the unique viscose system), then got here lyocell. And, all of those fibers are various kinds of rayons (suppose all squares are rectangles, however not all rectangles are squares).
All rayons are semi-synthetic cellulose fibers created from plant materials. Viscose, modal, and lyocell are simply various kinds of rayons. The identical manner, scarlet, fireplace engine, and crimson, are all totally different variations of the colour crimson.
Modal was first invented to attempt to make viscose extra sustainable, which resulted in a semi-closed loop system. Because of this a number of the waste product from the manufacturing of modal was capable of be reused to make extra.
Then, lyocell took this a step additional and created an nearly utterly closed-loop system. About 99% of the waste from lyocell manufacturing could be put again into the system to make new fibers. Fairly cool, huh?
HOW IS LYOCELL MADE?
Lyocell fibers are made equally to viscose and modal. Lyocell and Tencel Lyrocell are semi- artificial fibers, that means they’re synthetic, however are derived from vegetation. A very artificial fiber can be created from petroleum, FYI.
Through the manufacturing course of, wooden pulp is gathered. The pulp is damaged down right into a liquid by chemical substances, and that liquid is pushed by way of a teeny tiny bathe head referred to as a spinnerette. It’s pushed into an answer on the opposite aspect that can solidify the liquid and switch it into stable yarns.
Technically lyocell materials could be fabricated from any kind of regenerated cellulose, however bamboo and eucalyptus bushes are usually the most well-liked wooden sources.
Tencel lyocell can be created from various kinds of wooden pulp, however typically, it’s created from eucalyptus solely.
Each bamboo and eucalyptus are quick rising, to allow them to be harvested and replanted rapidly with out resulting in deforestation.
BAMBOO FABRIC
I guess you have got seen bamboo cloth marketed as a sustainable cloth possibility in shops. It’s particularly widespread in pajamas, and residential items like mattress sheets.
However, that bamboo cloth isn’t what quite a lot of manufacturers and the media have led you to consider. It isn’t a pure fiber that comes from the filth like cotton.
It’s a rayon.
Now, right here is one thing very fascinating that lots of people don’t know. Bamboo rayon could be made in two other ways. It may be made utilizing the outdated viscose rayon system. Or, it may be made utilizing the lyocell system. Viscose bamboos have a tendency to not be a really sustainable possibility, whereas bamboo lyocell that’s made in a closed-loop manufacturing system is.
So, the subsequent time you’re shopping for bamboo mattress sheets, know they’re nothing particular, they’re simply common outdated viscose or lyocell.
WHAT ARE THE PROPERTIES OF LYOCELL FIBERS?
This part goes that can assist you study lyocell cloth properties – every part that Lyocell can and might’t do. This manner, you may decide, for your self, whether it is the best choice on your clothes assortment.
For simplicity, on this part I’m going to make use of the phrase Lyocell, however please notice that every part I’m saying additionally applies to Tencel Lyocell cloth and fibers as properly.
What does lyocell cloth really feel like?
Lyocell appears like a cotton viscose mix. It’s the most effective of each worlds! Lyocell has that good, slinky, drapable really feel that appears like silk or viscose. However, it tends to really feel extra cozy and comfortable like cotton.
While you have a look at lyocell materials beneath a microscope, you may see tiny hair fibers poking up. This may even be the case when you had been taking a look at cotton. These little hair fibres are what create that comfortable really feel (in comparison with a glossy and clean hand really feel with silk).
Is lyocell cloth stretchy?
Lyocell, by itself, will not be a stretchy fiber. However manufacturers that use it can usually add spandex, elastane, or lycra, that are all very stretchy fibers. Underwear is a standard instance of a lyocell product that additionally has elastane added into the material!
However, there are different methods to get stretchy materials with out including stretchy fibers.
Knit materials are inclined to have extra engineered stretch than woven materials. That means you should utilize non stretch fibers, and nonetheless get a stretchy cloth. So, in case you are searching for a stretchy lyocell cloth with out elastic, go for a knit over a woven.
Does lyocell cloth cloth shrink?
Lyocell fibres have a tendency to not shrink considerably.
However, an important consider cloth shrinkage will not be the precise fiber, however the cloth development. Knits, particularly unfastened knits, are inclined to shrink essentially the most. Woven materials are usually extra secure.
The best way round shrinkage, irrespective of the fiber, is to have the material mill pre-shrink the material by pre-washing it or utilizing a system referred to as sanforizing. Sanforization is extra eco-friendly as a result of it doesn’t use water. As an alternative a machine vibrates the material to calm down the yarns, which permits them to shrink as much as the identical manner a washer would.
Is lyocell cloth absorbent?
It is rather absorbent. Much more so than cotton. Cotton fibers have an absorbance of about 8%, whereas lyocell materials has round 11%.
This elevated absorbancy is nice for shifting moisture away from the physique, and making a cool-feeling cloth – good for decent climates.
Does lyocell cloth wrinkle?
The flexibility to not wrinkle is definitely referred to as resiliency within the textile science neighborhood.
Resilience is rated on a scale: glorious, good, truthful, or poor. Cotton and viscose have poor resiliency, that means they wrinkle simply. Lyocell materials is available in with a ranking of truthful. Whereas that’s not nice, it’s nonetheless higher than the opposite two fiber choices.
And, in case you are curious, the fiber with among the finest resiliencies is polyester.
Is lyocell cloth excellent for decent climate?
In sizzling climate, lyocell is superb at not simply absorbing but additionally wicking moisture. Wicking feels like an excellent technical sporty time period, however actually all it means is moisture motion. So, materials which are good at shifting moisture are good at wicking.
When a cloth is each good at absorbing and shifting moisture, it is a perfect possibility for decent climates. That’s as a result of it can take up sweat from the wearers physique, then transfer and unfold it out so it evaporates rapidly. The important thing to staying cool isn’t simply absorbing it up; it’s evaporating it rapidly. That evaporation is what creates the feeling of cooling.
What are the wash and care directions for lyocell cloth?
Whereas lyocell will not be as delicate a fiber as silk, I nonetheless suggest washing on chilly and drying on a tumble setting. Trendy washing machines and dryers create quite a lot of friction. That friction is what breaks clothes down and makes them look worn out.
I additionally at all times give shopers the bonus tip to clean garments inside out. By doing this, you’ll shield the material on the surface and assist preserve your garments lookinf new for longer.
PROS OF LYOCELL FIBERS
One: It’s a Good Different To Natural Cotton
I can’t inform you what number of instances I’ve had this precise dialog with designers (too many). It goes one thing like this…
Designer – I need to use solely natural fibers
Me – cool, cotton?
Designer – no, cotton is just too stiff and inflexible, I used to be one thing flirty and flowy
Me – okay, how about silk
Designer – no, too costly
Me – rayon?
Designer – no, I prefer it, however based on the influencer I observe, rayon isn’t eco pleasant and is killing orangutans
Me – okay, so we’re again to cotton or silk, then
And, we by no means actually get wherever.
Lyocell is form of the loophole to this dialog.
It presents the flowyness that designers are searching for, however it’s rather more sustainable than conventional viscose. It’s the bridge between cotton that’s too stiff, and rayon that results in deforestation and different environmental contamination points.
Two: It Is Extra Sustainable
Lyocell doesn’t contribute to deforestation or chemical substances within the atmosphere and is biodegradable.
Probably the most necessary but missed points with sustainability is wearability. I at all times inform my purchasers, you may have essentially the most sustainable fibers and merchandise on this planet. However, if nobody needs to put on it as a result of it’s ugly or doesn’t carry out properly, then what’s the level?
Lyocell materials means that you can have your hyperboreal cake and eat it too.
That’s as a result of, Lyocell is a flexible and sustainable cloth that provides a terrific various to conventional supplies like cotton and rayon. Its means to wick moisture, form retention, and biodegradability make it excellent for decent climates and eco-conscious shoppers. With correct care, Tencel Lyocell clothes can last more and assist cut back our affect on the atmosphere, as sustainable vogue continues to achieve recognition.
CONS OF LYOCELL FIBERS
One: It Nonetheless Makes use of Chemical compounds and different Sources
Lyocell will not be a pure fiber, regardless that it’s usually created from bamboo or eucalyptus. And on the finish of the day, quite a lot of chemical substances and assets are getting used to create it. Some examples of those chemical substances embrace N-methyl morpholine- N-oxide (NMMO) and amine oxide (MMNO). Each of those chemical substances are thought of very low toxins, and many of the chemical substances (as much as 99%) could be reused once more within the course of.
However, the amassing of the wooden, turning it into pulp, making a fiber, then packaging and delivery these fibers to a yarn spinner is all very useful resource heavy. It requires water, warmth, and tons of electrical energy! Which all result in local weather change.
When you consider recycled and regenerated supplies usually, ask your self, how rather more wants to enter the system, for one thing new to come back out? And, is the price of these assets price it?
Two: It’s Dear
Model identify Tencel Lyocell cloth is much more costly than textiles made with generic fibers. However, in recent times, the worth of Tencel lyocell cloth has come down quite a bit. However nonetheless, it is among the costliest fibers round.
To cut back prices many manufacturers find yourself utilizing generic lyocell materials, which normally means much less transparency (learn, perception into put on the fibers got here from and the way they had been made).
Understanding this tradeoff between worth and transparency, is, for my part, one of many keys to understanding greenwashing.
THIS OR THAT
Once more, I will probably be utilizing the time period lyocell to incorporate Tencel Lyocell cloth on this part.
Okay, so let’s faux we’re designing a womens gown. Within the following examples, I’ll inform you the place lyocell can be your best option or the place different fibers may be a more sensible choice.
Let’s go!
Lyocell VS Cotton
What we’re actually taking a look at on this comparability is circulate vs construction.
A lot of my purchasers usually complain that they love the texture of cotton, but it surely’s simply too stiff for the types they’re creating. They need one thing that strikes and flows within the wind. So, If you’d like that straightforward, breezy, consolation of cotton, however a bit extra circulate. Lyocell is the selection.
Lyocell VS Modal
Similar, identical, however totally different.
Do you favor the texture of silk or of cotton? Each materials are going to have a pleasant drape and really feel. They will even each have quite a lot of motion (suppose, not stiff or structured). If you’d like your gown to really feel extra like silk and be a bit extra shiny, modal is the way in which to go. For a extra pure and matte cotton really feel, select lyocell materials.
Lyocell VS Viscose vs Cotton
For manufacturers that need the texture of cotton, however the drape of silk.
Lyocell materials is in contrast to all different viscose as a result of it’s designed to really feel extra like cotton. The fiber will fibrillate when washed. That means, it can turn into a bit bit fuzzy, the way in which cotton does.
Now, there’s a hack to get a viscose to really feel like cotton. And that’s through the use of staple-length viscose fibers. Viscose is usually one very lengthy filament fiber. However some producers will lower it up into cotton-size items, and twist these items collectively to kind a yarn. The result’s a cloth that feels quite a bit like cotton.
So, once more, in order for you a cotton really feel with a silk like circulate, the Rolls-Royce rayon of fibers goes to be lyocell. However, in case you are searching for one thing cheaper, you may attempt staple size (don’t overlook to say that bit) viscose.
For all of the property comparisons of cotton, viscose, lyocell, and modal, click here.
IS LYOCELL SUSTAINABLE? SHOULD I USE IT IN MY BRAND?
Are you searching for sustainably sourced textiles? It may be best for you. Or, perhaps not.
It actually depends upon you and your values.
If you already know me, then you already know I’m a real believer that nothing and every part is sustainable.
The best reply for each model depends upon what the tip use of the product is, and the professionals and cons of the choice.
That’s the reason I took the time to create a lot high-level, textile science, data on this article. I didn’t simply need to inform you, hey Lyocell is a closed loop system, and it doesn’t use petroleum; omg, so sustainable use it. I would like you to study the info and make your personal selections for your self.
WHERE TO BUY LYOCELL FABRICS
Fascinated by utilizing Lyocell, or branded Tencel Lyocell cloth in your line? Listed below are a number of the finest methods to supply the materials you’re searching for.
- Start with Lenzing: Lenzing is….They may be capable to direct you to cloth producers of their provider matrix. They may be a bit extra pricy, however whenever you purchase from them, you already know that the cellulosic supplies going into their system usually are not damaging the planet and resulting in deforestation, making this course of extra environmentally pleasant.
- Birla Excel: The little identified competitor of Lenzing is Excel fibers by Birla. “Birla Excel is created from a singular closed-loop course of the place the byproducts are utterly reused, thereby minimizing discharge and lowering environmental affect. Designers swear by this resilient, wash & put on cloth because it imparts fantastic lustre, drape and softness. Its distinctive propensity to fibrillate could be managed or accentuated for aesthetic versatility.”
ADDITIONAL FIBER RESOURCES
Wish to study extra about different sorts of sustainable fibers? I received you.
- Rayon: every part you possibly can presumably ever need to learn about all of the totally different sorts of rayon.
- Recycled cotton: professionals and cons, and knowledge on if it’s a commercially viable possibility to assist clear up vogue provide chains.
- Recycled polyester: Is it actually simply greenwashing? Spoiler, kinda.
- Modal: a complete breakdown, identical to this text, however on modal as an alternative.
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Do you intend to make use of Lyocell or Tencel Lyocell cloth on your model? Let me know within the feedback!
