Right now, modal material is used as a sustainable and vegan silk different. For a lot of manufacturers that wish to provide extra reasonably priced, sustainable choices to their prospects – modal material makes that potential with out compromising an opulent appear and feel. However, there’s a secret to substituting modal for silk. And, it’s understanding that not all modals are the identical. Don’t fear, I’m going to provide the cheat code. Let’s begin from the start – what’s modal material? And what’s the materials utilized in?
BUT BEFORE WE GET STARTED…
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WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
- What is modal fiber?
- Evolution of rayons and the invention of modal
- How is modal fabric made?
- Properties of modal fabrics
- stretch
- really feel
- shrinkage
- absorbency
- wrinkle
- cold and hot climate
- Washing and care directions
- Should you use modal in your clothing line?
- 4 professionals of modal
- 3 cons of modal
- This or that?
- Viscose vs modal
- Tencel vs modal
- Modal vs cotton
- Modal vs polyester
- Is the Lenzing modal better?
- Is modal really sustainable?
- Where to buy modal fabric
- Additional fiber resources
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WHAT IS MODAL FIBER
FIBER VS. FABRIC
All materials are made up of fibers.
Fibers are single strands concerning the width of a human hair. These fibers might be pure like cotton and silk, or man-made like modal and Tencel. The fibers are then spun collectively right into a yarn. And from there the yarns are mixed to type a cloth via weaving or knitting.
Modal is a fiber. And modal fibers make up a modal material.
You’ll be able to have modal knit materials and modal woven materials.
Consider it this fashion, modal is like eggs. An egg is an egg. However with that egg you may make all kinds of dishes – scrambled eggs, an omelet, poached, and many others.
That’s precisely the connection between fibers and materials.
MODAL VS RAYON
However, modal fiber can be a kind of rayon.
Complicated proper?
Rayon is the umbrella time period for various synthetic semi-synthetic fibers which can be made out of cellulose (plant materials). Different sorts of rayon embody Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, and Bamboo material.
One other time period for rayon fibers is regenerated cellulosic fiber (to not be confused with regenerative farming, which is a very completely different factor).
HISTORY AND INVENTION OF MODAL FABRIC
Fiber science is an evolution. It’s continuously altering, particularly immediately with new applied sciences and variations being found commonly. Modal is an extension of that evolution.
First got here the invention of viscose, which was then improved, and modal was invented. Modal material is taken into account second-generation viscose (Tencel and lyocell are third-generation).
Whereas many individuals consider viscose as an alternative choice to cotton, it was really invented by French scientist Hilaire de Chardonnet as an alternative choice to silk. The primary viscose was extraordinarily flammable and needed to be recalled from the market as a result of it was simply too harmful. This led to the German Bemberg Firm creating a much less flammable and extra consumer-friendly variation. Whereas the Bemberg Firm simply needed to make one thing that wouldn’t explode into flames whereas cooking breakfast, the inventors of modal (in Japan in 1951) got down to create a extra sustainable choice.
HOW IS MODAL FIBER MADE?
The scientific course of. Yea, this could be a bit boring. I imply, we’re right here for style, not science, proper? However, understanding this course of will provide help to perceive the sustainable advances in modal rayon, in addition to some greenwashing to keep away from. So, bear with me.
Step 1 – Gathering Cellulose
What’s modal material made out of?
In modal, the supply of the cellulose (plant materials) is beech bushes. The rationale beech bushes had been chosen for modal is as a result of they propagate simply. That means, they’re very straightforward to develop. Theoretically, you may take a department from a birch tree, stick it within the floor, and develop one other one. And, birch bushes additionally develop in a short time – they don’t take the centuries that nice oaks take. This makes birch an excellent sustainable supply of cellulose. It may be regrown simply and rapidly, stopping deforestation from tropical rainforest areas.
Step 2 – The Wooden Pulp Breakdown
This a part of the manufacturing course of will not be so earth pleasant. On this step, the wooden pulp is damaged down. First into tiny wooden chips, then right into a liquid with the assistance of some fairly harsh chemical compounds – sodium hydroxide used.
Step 3 – Liquid Modal
Extra chemical compounds – carbon disulfate – is added to make a liquid modal fiber. And a chemical response takes place to create and orange substance known as sodium cellulose xanthate.
We’ll get extra into all of the chemical compounds utilized in a bit of bit.
Step 4 – Extrusion
The liquid modal fiber is then pushed via a spinneret, one thing that appears like a mini bathe head, into one other chemical resolution – this time sulfuric acid. This causes the orange chemical resolution to solidify, creating fibers.
Step 5 – Repeat
Then, the method is repeated with a few of the waste. Modal was the primary fiber to aim a closed-loop mannequin. That means, the waste of the method may return into the system to make extra of the fiber.
Modal will not be an ideal closed-loop system; whereas some waste produced can return into the system, not all of it will probably. That’s the reason modal manufacturing is sometimes called a semi-closed loop system.
Whereas that is way more environmentally pleasant than conventional viscose, third-generation lyocell was capable of fully shut the loop, making an much more sustainable product.
WHERE IS MODAL FABRIC MADE?
Modal material is made everywhere in the world, however manufacturing hubs are positioned in Austria, China, and even america.
MODAL FABRIC PROPERTIES
What does modal material really feel like?
Is modal material stretchy?
Modal fibers on their very own should not very stretchy. However, you may make them stretchy via material building. Knit materials are likely to have a whole lot of pure engineered stretch in them. So a knit modal material, in comparison with a woven modal material might be extra stretchy.
If extra stretch is required then it’s potential via material design – elastic, spandex, or lycra that are fibers with pure stretch in them, might be added.
How does modal material really feel?
Modal material manufactured from beech bushes feels much like silk or artificial bamboo material. It’s slick, shiny, and tends to have a cooler really feel.
Does modal material shrink?
Modal fibers are very secure and have a tendency to not shrink. However (And, this can be a huge ‘however’) simply because a fiber doesn’t shrink that doesn’t imply a cloth received’t.
When materials are knit or woven into textiles the yarns that make them are stretched. After the textiles come off the machines, they calm down a bit of, which means they shrink a bit of. Then, when water is added (suppose washing), they calm down much more, and shrink much more. Knit materials (talked about above for his or her stretch), are likely to shrink quite a bit when washed for the primary time.
So, watch out. Simply because modal itself doesn’t shrink, that doesn’t imply your shirt will not.
Is modal material breathable?
Sure. Modal may be very breathable and performs equally to cotton.
The trick to assessing if a cloth is breathable or not is taking a look at if it absorbent. Materials which have larger absorbancy charges, are usually extra breathable.
Does modal material wrinkle?
On the subject of wrinkles, modal is fairly center floor. Cotton and linen are likely to wrinkle extra, however modal will not be as wrinkle resistant as polyester.
If you’d like a wrinkle resistant modal, I might suggest utilizing a knit material as an alternative of a woven one. That’s as a result of, typically, knit materials are likely to wrinkle lower than wovens.
Is modal material heat?
Modal fibers don’t provide a lot insulation, so they aren’t good for chilly climate.
They do provide good wicking capabilities, which make them a fantastic selection for heat climate. The key to good materials for warm climate is not only materials that soak up sweat, however materials that may wick (which means transfer) the moisture away from the physique, and disperse moisture, to assist it evaporate rapidly. That cool feeling comes from evaporation.
How do you wash modal fiber?
Washing and care directions for modal material will rely upon the knit, weave, and different manufacturing particulars. However as a great rule of thumb, wash in chilly water, and dry on delicate. Modal fibers might be steamed and ironed, however attempt to use a low setting to not harm the fibers with extreme warmth.
SHOULD YOU USE MODAL IN YOUR CLOTHING DESIGNS?
To determine if utilizing modal material is the proper selection for you, I wish to let you know about just a few modal materials professionals and cons. Let’s begin with the professionals.
MODAL FABRIC PROS
It’s a Good Monetary Various to Silk
Right now modal is used as a silk different for each value and ethics. Modal is a fraction of the worth of actual silk. For instance, the identical gown that might be about $25 to supply in modal, would price about $50 or extra to make in silk. That’s an enormous distinction.
It’s Vegan
The opposite professional to utilizing Modal is that it’s vegan. In the event you didn’t know, there’s a whole lot of crossover between the sustainable and vegan style areas. Through the use of a vegan choice, manufacturers are capable of attraction to a wider buyer base.
It Does Not Contribute to Deforestation
Whereas the usage of viscose was a step in the proper course (in my humble opinion), like all the pieces, it’s not excellent. And, one of many largest points with viscose is that it may very well be contributing to deforestation. Nevertheless, with modal, particularly the Austrian firm Lenzing’s modal, there tends to be way more transparency within the provide chain. Lenzing is among the largest suppliers of modal on the planet. The corporate works exhausting to eradicate deforestation and confirm the place all its cellulose is coming from. And, as a result of modal is simply utilizing birch bushes and never any previous sort of tree, like viscose rayon, the method of verification and tightening the availability chain tends to be simpler.
It has Excessive Moist Modulus (HWM)
One of many downsides to utilizing viscose is that it tends to stretch out, particularly when moist. That makes washing and caring for viscose troublesome. Excessive moist modulus, or HWM implies that a fiber is definitely stronger when moist. Within the case of modal, it’s about 50% stronger when moist. That implies that it’s a lot simpler to clean and take care of modal than viscose. And, on the planet of sustainable style, that may be a actually good factor. As a result of the simpler a garment is to clean, the longer it should final, and the longer it lasts, the much less probably it’s to finish up in a landfill.
Modal tends to be straightforward to dye due to the fiber’s excessive absorption fee (how briskly it sucks that dye proper up). There additionally tends to be much less harm (learn cash misplaced) through the dying course of due to the elevated power.
CONS OF MODAL
It Nonetheless Makes use of Chemical compounds
Many individuals consider that rayons are pure as a result of they’re comprised of crops. However, as I defined earlier, a whole lot of chemical compounds go into the fiber manufacturing course of.
SODIUM HYDROXIDE
Sodium hydroxide is only one instance of these chemical compounds. Excessive concentrations of sodium hydroxide have been recognized to trigger burns to the eyes, pores and skin, digestive system, and lungs. And, extended publicity could cause everlasting harm, and in some circumstances loss of life. Sodium hydroxide can be dangerous to aquatic life. That’s as a result of when sodium hydroxide is available in contact with water, it creates an exothermic response. That means it makes the water sizzling. Typically too sizzling for marine animals to outlive.
CARBON DISULFIDE
There’s additionally use of carbon disulfide. Staff uncovered to carbon disulfide have complained of dizziness, poor sleep, complications, anxiousness, lack of urge for food from abdomen issues, and imaginative and prescient adjustments when inhaled. Additionally it is believed the chemical could cause hurt to the eyes, kidneys, coronary heart, liver, nerves and pores and skin.
SULFURIC ACID
Publicity to sulfuric acid could cause pulmonary edema – or a build-up of fluid within the lungs, which is a medical emergency. Repeated publicity could cause everlasting harm. Whereas the best way we deal with these chemical compounds has improved via the years to guard the works in manufacturing crops, it’s nonetheless essential to keep in mind that these are some heavy-duty chemical compounds, and within the flawed fingers or with out the right security steering could cause critical lifelong issues.
It’s Tremendous Absorbent
Whereas that is professional for the dying course of, as talked about above. It may be a unfavorable for garment wearability and luxury. If in case you have ever observed, typically when you’re tremendous sizzling, and sweating quite a bit, your cotton shirt would possibly really feel actually heavy. That’s as a result of all the sweat out of your physique is rapidly absorbing into the shirt like a sponge. So, you could possibly perceive why modal could be a horrible selection of fiber for swim and athletic put on.
It Drugs and Snags
Many on-line articles are reporting that modal doesn’t tablet. And, that merely will not be the case.
I’ve run dozens of clothes packages that use modal material. And one of many issues I all the time talk about with my purchasers is that whereas the material seems lovely straight out of the manufacturing facility, there could be some complaints sooner or later after the shopper washes it just a few occasions.
There are additionally newer modals that have a tendency to tablet much less. Be certain that to be very clear along with your improvement and manufacturing workforce that you really want an choice engineered to tablet much less.
WHEN IS MODAL APPROPRIATE IN YOUR GARMENT DESIGN?
Many manufacturers get confused about what fibers they need to use for what sort of merchandise. So, I’m going to interrupt that down rapidly for you.
As a result of, right here is the factor. You’ll be able to have the nicest garment design, however for those who use the flawed fibers and materials, it will likely be a catastrophe. So, for all of those examples, let’s faux we’re designing a gown, after which determine which fiber could be greatest for the design.
VISCOSE VS MODAL
The very first thing to recollect is that viscose and modal are each rayons. However, they’ve some completely different properties. Modal tends to have a silkier really feel than viscose, and it additionally tends to be extra breathable. Usually talking, modal tends to have a extra luxurious really feel than viscose, and it additionally tends to be dearer.
Our gown instance: Each viscose and modal are going to create a really flowy breezy gown. However, if you’re involved with consolation, particularly in sizzling climate, you’d wish to go for modal.
Additionally, if you need a extra luxurious product (learn, promote for more cash), modal does are likely to have a extra luxurious really feel and look than viscose.
TENCEL VS MODAL
Once more, modal and Tencel are each several types of rayon. However, whereas modal mimics silk, Tencel tends to really feel extra like cotton. Besides, a extra cozy cotton.
Our gown instance: Modal and tencel are each going to supply a whole lot of motion and flowyness within the material. However, if you need the material to have larger shine, and really feel extra like silk, it is best to select modal.
If you’d like the gown to have extra of that cozy cotton really feel, then select Tencel.
MODAL FABRIC VS COTTON
Modal is a semi-synthetic rayon that was created to really feel like silk. Cotton is a pure material that tends to really feel a bit of extra rugged. Naturally, cotton has a a lot stiffer handfeel than modal.
Our gown instance: A gown made with cotton might be extra inflexible, and have a tendency to have much more construction (suppose a woven button-down poplin shirt). Whereas, a gown made with modal might be flowy with motion or a light-weight breeze.
MODAL FABRIC VS POLYESTER
Modal and poly are each going to supply shine and drape akin to silk. Usually, polyester is taken into account a straightforward care material. That means it doesn’t wrinkle, and may be very straightforward to clean. The draw back to polyester although, is that it’s mainly a plastic and tends to not breath effectively – which means it isn’t nice for the warmth.
Our gown instance: If you’d like one thing that won’t wrinkle (pondering packing in a suitcase for trip) polyester goes to be your greatest wager. However, it’s additionally going to be sizzling and sweaty.
In the event you additionally need the gown to be comfy, particularly in sizzling climate, I might choose modal (simply bear in mind to pack a steamer for these wrinkles).
Additionally, from a sustainability standpoint modal material is the clear winner right here.
IS PAYING MORE FOR LENZING FIBERS WORTH IT?
In my view, sure.
You don’t simply get the traceability of the model, you additionally get tons of technological improvements that had been meant to unravel issues and provide help to create the perfect product potential. That’s as a result of, Lenzing doesn’t simply make 1 sort of modal – they really make 9 differing types (as of April 2023).
A number of of my favorites…
These several types of fibers purpose to unravel completely different issues for the shopper. Lenzing micro expertise is used to make modal micro and modal micro air. This expertise produces finer and lighter fibers which can be higher fitted to athletic put on.
Lenzing eco coloration expertise creates modal coloration and modal coloration black. These fibers are a particular set of choices that are available in premade coloration choices. The colour is definitely added into the liquid combine, earlier than it’s became strong fibers. The profit to any such expertise is that there is no such thing as a further dying course of – which means it saves a TON (actually) of water and vitality. The draw back is, manufacturers should select from a predetermined set of colours. However one other profit to this expertise is that it tends to have higher coloration retention (which means won’t fade) in comparison with different conventional dye strategies. The colour black is infamous for fading, so the truth that Lenzing makes a particular black choice is noteworthy. And, Lenzing indigo coloration, is simply what it appears like an indigo denim modal choice.
IS MODAL REALLY SUSTAINABLE?
I saved this for the top. As a result of, to reply it it’s essential to perceive all of the ins and outs, and professionals and cons of utilizing it. The factor is, sustainability isn’t black and white. It isn’t good and dangerous. Sustainability is about doing the perfect you may.
So, if you’re utilizing polyester for a gown, and might use modal then ya, it’s most likely a extra sustainable choice. However, if utilizing modal, like within the instance of swimwear, creates a decrease high quality product, one thing that folks received’t like utilizing, and can simply depart of their closets, finally find yourself in a landfill, then, no it’s not.
On the finish of the day if one thing is sustainable or not is set by you and your values, not what {a magazine} article says.
There you go! All the secrets and techniques have been revealed. When you perceive all the pieces there’s to learn about modal, and by now you do, it’s actually as much as you for those who contemplate an choice for you or not. Bear in mind, there is no such thing as a proper or flawed reply.
WHERE TO BUY MODAL FABRIC
BEST PLACES TO BUY SUSTAINABLE MODAL FABRIC
ADDITIONAL FIBER RESOURCES
What is tencel lyocell, and is it sustainable?
DO YOU PLAN TO USE MODAL IN YOUR FASHION BRAND?
Sustainable clothes manufacturers, let me know within the feedback – what do you suppose now that you just actually perceive, what’s modal material? Are you going to make use of it in your line?
